Okay, fashion darlings. I showed you my favorite moments from Phoenix Fashion Week Shop Garment District (if you missed it, check it out here), but now I want to break down my thoughts on every show with an emerging designer review.

Feel free to disagree with me though. That’s the wonderful thing about fashion: it’s an art form. And everyone has an opinion that counts when it comes to art!

Show Review

Last year at Shop Garment District, I rated the designers in 3 categories on a scale from 1 – 10 in the hopes that they would take this feedback and improve on the runway in October. It was a big success, and many designers thanked Couture in the Suburbs for helping them see the direction their line needed to go. I decided to give it another go, in the hopes that we have some fantastic collections to show our readers at Phoenix Fashion Week 2015.

Here’s my criteria:

#1 is first and foremost the taste level.
If you’re tacky, I hate you. (Hopefully some out there get this School of Rock reference!)

#2 is the unique factor.
I absolutely love seeing something I haven’t seen before. Fashion should cause the audience to have a reaction. Not everyone will love it, but they will pay attention to it.

#3 is cohesiveness and styling.
Does it look like the same customer would wear all the pieces in a collection? I really hate leaving confused about who would actually wearing these clothes.

Designers, this feedback is for YOUR benefit. You are in charge of your line.
Take this feedback and make your brand better then ever.

Arae with Beltshazzar – Styled by Vanessa Gonzales

Taste Level – 10
Unique – 10
Cohesion – 10

As if you couldn’t tell from my previous post, I honestly loved everything about this show. The fabrics were beautiful. The frayed edges added a very unique quality to the garments. The styling was perfect. Everything tied together for a show that’s a perfect 10 (not something I give out lightly!). I can’t wait to see more from Arae and might have to snag a few pieces for myself.

Azmara Asefa with Beltshazzar

Taste Level – 8
Unique – 6
Cohesion – 6

This collection wasn’t awful, but it wasn’t great. It fell in that deadly middle ground that means you are likely to be forgotten after all the Phoenix Fashion Week hoopla is over and done with. The looks were over styled and relied too much on jewelry and accessories to make a statement. It seemed to be well cut, but overall it looks exactly like clothes that are already available on the market from a retailer like Zara.

Azmara Asefa needs to simply her styling, and create some show stopping pieces that showcase her talent as a designer if she wants to make her mark on Phoenix.

Charmosa Swimwear

Taste Level – 9
Unique – 6
Cohesion – 10

Charmosa Swimwear perfectly embodies the sultriness of designer Neide Hall’s home country, Brazil. I loved the crocheted black one piece and blue crocheted top in particular, but thought the whole collection was much stronger than what we saw from the designer back in 2014. Her fit has improved dramatically, we just still want to see a little bit more wow factor from this designer.

Cute Like Mad – Styled by Audree Lopez

Taste Level – 3
Unique – 2
Cohesion – 1

I was incredibly disappointed by this show, because Cute Like Mad was one of my favorite designers based on my online research. The collection shown was not one bit cohesive, and had nothing really unique about it. The only reason I even gave Cute Like Mad a 2 instead of a 1 in the unique category is because at least the designer picked current fashion trends (fringe and drop crotch pants) to copy in her random assortment of clothes shown. The best way I can describe was was shown tonight is the best of Dillard’s tween section. Seriously, if you went to Dillard’s and picked 4 looks for 4 incredibly different high school girls, this is what it would end up looking like.

To improve for the runway show in October, the designer should return back to the streamlined designs she features on her website, with a focus on high quality materials in simple silhouettes.

Haute Body

Taste Level – 10
Unique – 7
Cohesion – 8

Now I will admit, that workout clothes as fashion is one trend that I absolutely hate. That being said, it seems that the rest of America has out voted me and decided that this now qualifies as “fashion”. And, with a raving review like the one Lexi gave this designer about the quality of her clothing in our highlights story (read more here), I will give credit where credit is due.

The streamlined aesthetic is a refreshing change from all the excessive designs we are seeing in athletic wear from designers like Stella McCartney from Adidas. Haute Body also features really practical features like a zipper pocket for your cell phone and keys. Michael Spangenberg, owner of Phoenix Fashion Week alum, State 48, picked Haute Body as his favorite designer for the season, and with his vote of confidence we are excited to see how this designer progresses. (Although you still won’t catch me wearing workout clothes outside of the gym!)

Hues of Ego – Styled by Nuvia Magdahi

Taste Level – 9
Unique – 7
Cohesion – 10

I loved this new feminine look from Hues of Ego. The coat was my favorite piece once again (see some of the designers incredible coat designs from Phoenix Fashion Week 2014 here). Everything fit the models perfectly, and the styling stayed true to the soft aesthetic Natasha was conveying.

I would love to see Hues of Ego work with some more luxurious materials because this is another brand that I could see along side designer collections at New York Fashion Week. It can be scary to experiment with a higher price point, but when you see what a brand like The Row can charge for their pieces, you can see that customers are willing to pay for high quality design, material, and fit.

 

Laura Tanzer

Taste Level – 8
Unique – 8
Cohesion – 10

I loved the color palette and print that Laura Tanzer used, and loved how cohesive all of her pieces were. The reversible jackets were a very smart decision, and I loved the way she incorporated the design into the models’ walk (read more about that here).  I was a little distracted by how wrinkled these pieces were… I’m assuming they are a linen type material and that the models sat down in them (naughty models!) Overall, I would like to see Laura push the envelope a bit and design a few pieces that have the wow factor that seemed to be missing.

 

Leola Sky

Taste Level – 3
Unique – 4
Cohesion – 8

Let me start my saying that the circle skirt in this collection was phenomenal. The cut was great, and as it moved the material caught the light beautifully. However, it was the only piece that was really well crafted. Everything else had poor fit and lacked much design. The white jumpsuit with the bow was different… but not really in a good way. It was terribly unflattering for the poor model.

For the runway in October, Leola Sky needs to work on their execution and make sure that every piece is cut and sewn to perfection. I always tell designers they don’t have to do it themselves. If sewing isn’t your strength, partner with a good seamstress who can bring your vision to life. Sloppy execution makes your design look cheap. And I don’t think that’s a look any of these designers are going for this season.

Lily V Designs with Clutch Crowns

Taste Level – 2
Unique – 8
Cohesion – 4

Color and pattern galore. Lily V Designs clearly believes that more is more when it comes to her fabric selection. The garments appeared to be well made, but the outfit pairings were incredibly distracting and I don’t know any girl that would walk out in these looks head to toe. The one saving grace was the last maxi dress, adorned with a Clutch Crown and Waist Piece, but honestly, what doesn’t look good when you add Clutch accessories?
(Answer: nothing. Literally you can wear a sheet and it still looks good. I’ve seen it done before. See the looks here.)

I would like to see Lily V simply her styling and add in a few plainer pieces to break up all the pattern. Bold colors and loud statement patterns can be wonderful, but you have to have a very distinct eye if you are going to mix and match them.

 

Lousy Rich

Taste Level – 1
Unique – 1
Cohesion – 2

This show did nothing for me. I absolutely hated this tutu. It looked cheap and made the poor model look absolutely huge (which she isn’t by the way). The looks that followed were incredibly unoriginal and boring. If there hadn’t been dramatic jewelry, no one would have paid attention. The gown might have been okay had it not been the last piece in a completely uninspiring collection. By the point that look came down the runway I had given up on this designer.

My advice for October would be to go back to the drawing board, literally. Start with new sketches. Preferably ones that are inspiring and pieces that someone would actually want to wear. Not pieces that are picked off the basics sale rack.

 

Medium Apparel – Styled by Tim Boado

Taste Level – 10
Unique – 10
Cohesion – 7

Now as I’m sure you are all well aware, I don’t particularly like seeing t-shirts on the runway. However, Medium Apparel has reached far beyond their t-shirt past into fabulous cut & sew pieces that seem to be performing really well for them. My favorite look of the night was without a doubt the floral shirt, but I also loved the bomber jacket and baseball jersey. I could see Medium Apparel becoming a lifestyle brand equivalent to the incredibly successful Off White and Hood By Air if they continue the direction they are going.

Keep up the good work Zac!

 

Michelle Hébert – Styled by Jackie Marin

Taste Level – 10
Unique – 10
Cohesion – 10

Another perfect 10 show! Skyler Scott’s personal favorite, Michelle Hébert delivered an incredible show that showed off both her runway gowns, and her new lingerie pieces in an incredibly cohesive way that blended fantasy with the modern woman’s wardrobe. Stylist Jackie Marin outdid herself and created some of our favorite looks we have ever seen at a Phoenix Fashion Week show. Bravo ladies.

 

Michi Knitwear

Taste Level – 6
Unique – 8
Cohesion – 8

I might be totally off basis, and wrong, but I just don’t see a market for these knitwear dresses. Michi’s designs are incredibly well made, and I’m sure they will appeal to someone, but it doesn’t work for me at all. I wish her the best of luck in making knitwear couture a thing, but for now, the only knitwear in my closet will be cozy, oversized sweaters.

 

What did you think of the Phoenix Fashion Week 2015 Emerging Designers? Shout us out on Twitter @SuburbsCouture

All photos courtesy of Manikandan Vijayakumar of M.I Fashion Photos.

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