Photo courtesy of Sarah Kocher
The French have given us some wonderful things. One such example is that of language: English as we know it is a hodgepodge of other languages, and our words for art, law and science are largely based on ones we’ve stolen from the French lexicon. But French has also lent us a way to discuss one of the most important things out there: food. And more specifically, dessert.
CH Patisserie taps into this French influence both culinarily and linguistically; located downtown on Phillips Ave., it exists as a haven for anyone with an appreciation of light French jazz and a soft spot for macaroons, which hang in strings from the windows.
The pastry shop entrance is surrounded by framed and plaqued magazine articles featuring CH’s chef, Chris Hanmer. A closer look at any of the stories—or even a look in the display case, really—makes certain you are aware that you are in the presence of what Educated Eaters believe to be a dessert deity. The “World Champion Pastry Chef” title helps more than a little, and as the staff attire will tell you (white chef jackets, aprons and small white hats), this dessert thing is Serious Business.
Photo courtesy of Sarah Kocher
Truthfully, I would expect nothing less from an establishment that sells a macaroon rainbow with flavors ranging from a dangerously blue and vaguely titled “candy bar” to the bright fuchsia of October’s featured flavor, Early Grey. The only thing missing from such a diverse selection was a warning label: if you’re going to eat more than two, bring a friend (I did).
Between the two of us, we tried the lavender-hued ice coffee, cream-colored vanilla bean, vibrantly red strawberry lemon, aforementioned Earl Grey and, to top it off, the staff-recommended and graham cracker-dusted s’more macaroons ($2 each). We were also able to polish off a tiramisu ($6.25) and a caramel apple tart ($6) with delightfully little effort.
Photo courtesy of Sarah Kocher
Of the many things we discover Chris Hanmer is, tasting his patisserie’s desserts also tells us one thing he is not: heavy-handed. The tiramisu, made of fresh and heavy whipped cream and creamy mascarpone with a coffee-soaked, cracker-thin layer of cake as a divider, was rich without being weighty. Topped with dark chocolate pearls and swirls, the Italian dessert presented delicious balance in its crunchy and moist textures, and a dropper of espresso presented the diner with the freedom to amp up the coffee’s influence as seen fit.
Photo courtesy of Sarah Kocher
Despite being covered in vanilla cream, vanilla caramel and vanilla poached apples, the almond tart base contributed a welcome flakiness to the overall creation that was CH’s caramel apple tart. Although vanilla-soaked, the apples retained all of their flavor, including a welcome zing that was tempered with the dessert’s other components. In perhaps the greatest move of mastery, the caramel was treated with a “less is more” mentality that allowed it to enrich the tart’s flavor profile without drowning it out.
The showstopper, however, came in the humble exterior of a s’more macaroon. While the other four flavors relied mostly on smell to give an impression of its flavor, the s’more macaroon offered not only smell, but also taste and emotion, like eating autumn in two bites.
These are the best parts of CH Patisserie. The worst?
It’s closed on Mondays, the day we need it most.
Photo courtesy of Sarah Kocher
