Despite its water-inspired name, McKenzie River Pizza, Grill and Pub appears to have a tree addiction.
Walking in the door, your first impression is wood. Birch trees stretch from floor to ceiling, acting as subtle barriers between different sections of the dining room. The floor is wood. The tables are wood. The walls are wood. The ceiling is wood. The bar is wood. The chairs are wood, and all of different types. It would seem difficult to lighten up such a heavy aesthetic, but MacKenzie River keeps it light and natural, lending—you guessed it—a woodsy, “at home up North” kind of feel. Upside down rowboats hang from the ceiling, and we are seated by an old-timey black-and-white photo of a bear standing upright and peering into a car.
Photo courtesy of Sarah Kocher
At MacKenzie River, I feel like the bear and I may have something in common: we’re both hungry, with high expectations.
In its sheer scale, the menu does not disappoint. The options are staggering and diverse. Flatbreads. Burgers. Pub specials (which, at MacKenzie River, means meatloaf and fish tacos). Sandwiches. Pastas. Soups and salads. And, of course, pizza. Each meal type has at least five options to choose from, so if your friends are picky eaters, take them here.
After a “lodge pole” cheesy breadstick appetizer that was the perfect size for the four of us, I stuck with the tree theme and ordered the Sequoia personal pizza. Topped with artichoke hearts, pine nuts, a pesto sauce base, mozzarella cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, it seemed appropriately named, as both the tree and the pizza’s toppings exude California.
Photo courtesy of Sarah Kocher
This pizza does come with a warning: it is very dough, cheese, and garlic heavy and the accents behave as just that: accents. While some of the flavors are overpowered, it’s hard to be truly mad about it when the crust and cheese are as good as they are. This was an opinion shared by all three pizza eaters at the table, no matter which was ordered.
Photo courtesy of Sarah Kocher
Our one breakout eater had the Grizzly Bear cheeseburger. The fry serving size was saddeningly small, but my companion said her burger was flavorful and well done.
Despite these small disappointments, I got what I came for: trees on trees on trees. In addition, I left with more than I bargained for. MacKenzie River nails it where most restaurant pizza often falls short: rather than rubbery and a little sad-looking, it’s even better the second day.
